Fall heading for winter

Our mountain valley is now tinged with the golden and scarlet hues of fall, with the stillness and snows of winter not far off. Visitors are few, summer staff have long since departed, and winter staff and skiers not yet arrived.

There is something magical about the last few glorious days of fall sun before winter really sets in. The light has a very crisp and clean quality, showing off the mountain peaks, larch, heather and aspen in all their glory. I have never figured out if it's because the days are getting shorter, less humidity or heat in the air, or just colder temps that make things so crystal clear. Whatever it is, I cherish those last rays of warmth as the winter solstice approaches.

If that weren't enough, two years ago we were married at Bow Lake. It was a picture perfect, warm, golden day, with a light dusting of fresh snow on the surrounding peaks, the white, gold and crimson hues reflected on the surface of the lake. The whole weekend was a real life fairy tale, with us surrounded by the love, warmth, and generosity of our families and friends.




We just enjoyed another wonderful anniversary dinner at the Post Hotel a short walk from our door. Service is impeccable, and the food is always great. It’s the best place to eat in town, bar none.

Today, we finally had a chance to get out exploring our mountain home after settling back into our routine of dogwalking and play, work, swimming and yoga for me. A quick jaunt up to Larch Valley is always a treat at this time of year. The larch turn golden, the only coniferous tree to lose its needles sort of like deciduous trees.



Against the backdrop of a blue sky, and the white on the peaks, they really do glow. Alas, the rain got them this week and many had fallen by the time we did a short hike up to Larch Valley today. There was also compact snow - a good 2cm - on the ground. That, and the temp (my hands got cold) signaled that winter is not so far away. We may well have just done our last high country hike until plants and animals come back to life in the spring .

Now thoughts turn to how much snow will fall, and when winter sports can start. We always hope for a sudden cold snap, with no snow. That freezes the lakes, and you can skate on clear ice, chasing fish and other creatures of the deep! If not, a good deep snow fall that sets down a good base.

End of a journey

Alas, all great journeys must come to end. It was time to go home - after 10 glorious days of adventures, sand, sea and sky. We were ready to return to our mountain home, reunite with our dog, enjoy family and friends and see the beautiful colours of fall in our own special place.



One last shot of our little surf cottage, about a block and a half from the beach, and, as it turns out, a heritage property.

We packed up, leaving out suits, snorkel gear, and acquiring a beach towel (our accom provided them up to now) to take advantage of one last sun & snorkel opportunity. I snuck in one more snorkel at Lawai'i beach, where all the fish were. We ate the dregs of our food in the shade of the palm trees watching surfers practice tricks out on the waves. It is hard to get good, as witnessed by a few who fell off almost every wave they took. But they were trying to switch sides, and turn their boards on the waves. More advanced than me!

We decided to take a back road - what would have been a Michelin Green route - back to the airport. We stopped at a pullout, no doubt providing some amusement to passersby as we madly packed up our swimwear, and changed into plane appropriate gear. The view overlooked this wonderful green valley edged by the Hule'ia River, and an ancient Menehune (Little People) fish pond:



One last view of the island from the plane

Kauai was beautiful, and in the end, not doing the kayak trip was not that big a deal. We enjoyed as much as we could, given our time and interests. There's something about coming home that makes us dream of other journeys to do in this great big fascinating world. Hawaii is always a great place to go and we hope to return some day, maybe to see the volcanoes. Europe is probably next, a snorkel/kayak trip and for me, a surf/yoga trip would all be near the top of the list.

A hui hou, Aloha Kauai - the Garden Island.
Thank you & Good Bye

Wailua - Secret Falls

Our last full day on holiday. Last chance to do the ocean trip but alas it was cxl'd due to weather. So we decided we should do the alternate kayak trip on the Wailua River, which included a hike to the not-so Secret Falls as we discovered.

There were only 4 of us and a guide on this trip, which was nice. We were also out on the water early, when it was less busy and calmer. Along the way, we saw flowers that bloom for one day and change colour while in bloom, the awapuhi Paul Mitchell uses in his shampoo, and other trees used for various aspects of Hawaiian culture. Most trees were introduced with the Hawaiians or during the late 1700s/early 1800s with the great ocean trade routes between Asia, North America and Europe. So it really is hard to identify "native" Hawaiian plants, and people who arrived about 700 years ago realized they had to bring their own useful trees and animals like wild boars with them to survive.

It rained while we were kayaking, but soon stopped and cleared up for a nice beautiful day. The river was brackish, meaning sea & fresh water, but also dark, not the clear rivers we have here. Saw a tilapia in the river on our way out, but you had to be quick cuz the water is so dark.

The hike was wet & muddy, through forest, but at one time, was taro terraces complete with irrigation from the waterfall. In fact, it was no forest - it was open & sunny. A good place to be with access to the ocean and fresh water both not too far away. Mango, guava and papaya trees all growing wild.

We got to our destination, a waterfall with a small pool at the base of it.



The water was quite dark due to all the vegetation around, but it was a refreshing swim, not a whole lot warmer than our mountain lakes! A quick snack and we headed back down the trail and onto the river.

Our lunch stop was at Duke's Canoe bar where we indulged in another lunch time cocktail. We paid homage to Duke Kahanamoku, the great swimmer of the early 20th century, the grandfather of modern surfing, and councillor for the City of Honolulu. We enjoyed the outrigger canoe, gorgeous wooden surfboards, and photos and displays of his life, even if the restaurant is a chain with outlets in Hawaii and California, and pricier than other meals we had. I just read his Waikiki surfboard weighed 114 lb and was about 12 feet. The ones I was using were about 11 feet, foam core, but still darn heavy, though not that heavy.
Fo' mo info:


As if that weren't enough for one day, we headed to the south side of the island again in search of two recommended snorkel spots - boat ramp and Lawai'i or Beachhouse Restaurant beach. At boat ramp, there was hardly anyone - lack of beach keeps people away. But the fish were crazy - lots, very colorful, and big! I nearly ran into a sea turtle floating along beside Ted. It's like he came to check us out. Again, a special and moving experience with a wonderful prehistoric creature.

We caught "last swim" at Lawai'i Beach. It is enclosed by a reef, with a very minor current so it came highly recommended. Surf was up so viz not quite as good, but once out of the surf it was like being in an aquarium - so many fish - if you were still, you could join the school. We saw some bigger fish , multi colored and bright red. It is really hard to describe them all, there are so many and they are so colorful.

Not bad for a last vacation day!

MASH redux

So on holiday with a photographer sometimes means getting up in time for first light. At least in Hawaii it's a reasonable 5:30 am (9:30 am at home). We went to the Princeville Resort balcony (same for sunset pix) to get some shots and then a swanky breakfast on the patio overlooking the ocean. Alas, there were no signs of life, and we both commented that the resort did not meet the usual swank standards of other resorts - threadbare carpets, dated light fixtures, and absolutely no one around. We finally talked to the front desk and discovered that the hotel was closing that day for a major renovation - they must've heard our observations and decided to act :-)

Stopped in town to pick up breakfast, and then off to the Kauai Coffee Plantation. We sampled a few different kinds of coffee. It was neat to see the coffee trees - they changed a sugar plantation into a coffee farm. We saw a bit about how coffee is made, but really it was a "shop" disguised as a museum. Even so, we selected a bag to bring home.

Then the real highlight of the day for me (and probably 2nd best after surfing) was an open air heli trip in a Hughes 500, the M*A*S*H helicopter. No doors between me, the camera and the views. My other half didn't want to go because he wanted to do the biplane trip, but the engine was in pieces all over the hangar floor. He said a heli tour would be no match. I didn't get it but I wasn't going to turn down the chance to fly!















I took so many pix I burned up the memory card, and missed some photos of the steep green walls and interior waterfalls. Here is a link to a photo of Mt Wai'ale'ale, the wettest place on earth with some 400 inches of rain a year.
http://www.nature.org/wherewework/northamerica/states/hawaii/preserves/art20327.html
For an island, Kauai is blessed with more freshwater than most, but with all the development pressures, we were conscious that fresh water for agriculture, vacation homes, resorts and residents is obviously a concern, and this link confirmed that indeed a water conservation project is being set up by the Nature Conservancy.

Our pilot was a DUDE, and managed to slam every town on the island during the tour. At least he had charm, and it fit in with his persona, and the patter was more entertaining than that of raft guide. But really, it was the scenery and the photo ops that mattered.

We then did a little bit of shopping, and I managed to dip into Hanalei Bay for a swim just at dark, cuz I could. Surfers and body boarders out in droves at sunset, after work & school. The surf meant our kayak trip was a scrub for us.

Hiking the Na Pali Coast

Since our boat trip still seemed unlikely, we thought we should hike the 1st 2 miles of the trail. Two miles should be no problem - it's not that far.

The only things carried in the pack were 2 water bottles and sunscreen. Of course, the camera also came along separately.

As we started hiking, the trail went straight up to almost 600 feet, and then down to the beach. It was harder than you might think hiking in 85 degree heat straight up. The other thing I had to get used to was the sound of sightseeing helicopters. For me, a helicopter is a sure sign of a rescue, ie, plucking someone from peril.

Lots of cool vegetation along the way:



This beach is absolutely pristine and beautiful, and of course, not too many people there thanks to the hike.





On the way down to the beach, there is handmade sign that says
"the beach is beautiful, but visitors have lost their lives due to the strong currents." It then has a tally of how many, and the current count is 82 for the beach.


Despite the sign, there were still people in the water swimming outside the breaking waves. We watched one guy get further and further out, and then have to come back in and it was quite a bit harder than he thought. At the end of the trail, there is a great view of the Ke'e beach, which was closed to swimming while we were there.



Apparently we missed one of the lifeguards rescuing a snorkeller. It would've been neat to see them in action!

And speaking of safety, this was the day my sea sting swelled up and itched for awhile. Nothing a little cortisone couldn't fix, but it might come back again within the next 4-6 weeks!! All thanks to this little guy:



We definitely earned a round of drinks that day!!

Surf's up

I have no photos of me surfing, and when we went back to take photos of the waves, they were peanuts compared to a few days ago. Explains why the kayak trip went on the day we were supposed to go home.

Anyhow, I played with the big kids! I was able to paddle, and stand up. Waves were different though - bigger, less power and harder to keep up with them. Probably 3 to 5 feet. With the big waves, it's hard to get out of the near shore, the area where the surf wash and waves break. But I managed!

By the end of 2 hours, my arms were tired, my neck stiff and my thighs had board rash on them. Now I know why most people wear shorts or wetsuits. The instructor had a wetsuit on, and found the water cool for his liking.

A quick lunch time nap,(anyone sense a holiday pattern?) and then off to the Kilauea Lighthouse Wildlife Refuge. We got there in time to watch spinner dolphins playing in the waves, but too far away for decent pix. Here's a quicktime video from our raft trip CD:



Tropicbirds,



Baby egrets nesting in the bushes, this was only one of several hidden in the bushes just the other side of the fence.



Frigate birds,



and Hawaii's state bird, the nene. It is an endangered species, but is making a good comebakc on Kauai since there are no mongoose. Not quite as agressive or noisy as a Canada goose but you can tell they are related - they have attitude if people get too close.



And sunset at Princeville, a totally planned "community" of condos, houses, and resorts in what was once ranchland. It overloks Hanalei Bay, where we were staying. Not in the photo are about 30-50 surfers lined up to catch the waves. From that far away, with the wetsuits on, they looked like seals or snowboarders on the side of the hill waiting their turn in the pipe. We saw a Polynesian canoe out for a work out right at sunset.



There is a neat snorkelling spot in there that is not recommended at high surf so we did not go. The main hotel as we discovered on sunrise day, is closing to re-open as a Hyatt resort in April 2009.

Makai - Mauka

Makai- Mauka; toward the sea - toward the mountains.

Na Pali Coast is west by boat, Waimea is inland from the coast, on the leeward side of the island. The wettest place on earth right next to a bone dry volcanic landscape. Side by each, ridge side by ridge side. It is also higher in elevation, and also cooler. It took less than an hour from our boat harbour to reach this viewpoint, and about 1.5 hours to the end of the road, stopping at all the viewpoints along the way.

We enjoyed a nap in the cooler breeze at the first pull out at elevation in our rented car with seats that went back...wouldn't have had anything to do with the beer at lunch...ah holiday time in a hot climate :-)

Then a couple of viewpoints ooohing and aaahing at the scenery, the rocks, and the vegetation. Red dirt that seemed to accumulate on everything. Late in the day made for some neat photos with the shadows of the setting sun. This is the end of the road, another view of the Na Pali coast.




It is hard to get used to 12 hours of daylight, 6 am to 6 pm more or less. Last light just creeps up and then, whooosh, gone. And another precious vacation day over.

The Na Pali Coast

So sightseeing by Zodiac was not our 1st choice. Kind of reminds me of another Sept. trip out to Pac Rim, when a blown-up bridge, boat service cut backs and a brewing storm all combined to shorten a kayak trip in the Broken Group.

We zoomed past miles of empty beach, occupied by a Navy Base, which restricts access to locals with no criminal convictions (!), and another beach accessible only by 4WD. The views were spectacular along the coast. At our first stop, I spotted a ginormous sea turtle surfacing for air.

I wish I could say I took these photos, but alas, my camera busted and has to be returned for repair. Was I ever choked though when the boat company photo guy used the EXACT SAME camera! I will stop whining about it now...
Huge cliffs rising straight up out of the water,





Sea caves to explore



and lush green valleys occupied by Hawaiians a couple of hundred years ago.

Our captain could use some guiding tips - like he kept talking about the cliffs when we were all gawking at the sea turtle, and would share the most salacious aspects of native Hawaiian culture without any context or reasons. Too rough to go into the sea caves too. Also, we were let off for a swim at lunch, but ordered not to stray too far away from the boat and get back in FAST! Mind you, we weren't far from the spot where Ms. Hamilton's shark attack took place so good reason to be cautious. I just can't help myself from noting this as it is my profession.

Snorkelling, Kauai Style

Anini Beach first off. Great big wide sandy beach, campground and some very swanky beach homes, most also for rent.

Snorkelling was good - saw needlenose fish, eels, tangs and other colorful creatures. I was keeping one eye on shore as I could feel a bit of a current, but the area was shallow and all enclosed in a reef. We shared the beach with surfers playing on the outside of the reef. Not a bad way to start the day!

We then had to figure out what to do since it seemed iffy for four boat trip, the whole reason for going. We chose to do a 4 hour zodiac trip as some of the other options were booked or way more money.

I also felt the need to unleash my inner surfer girl again so signed for a 2 hour private lesson. Seemed the sensible solution since surf's up in Hanalei Bay for the winter.

We drove to the other side of the island, Poipu, later in the afternoon, for a snorkel at Poipu Beach Park. The beach itself is quite small, but the variety of fish in a small stretch of reef and tidepools was incredible. There were lots of waves, but again, the reef stopped the big crashes. We did get moved around by the current, and you could shoot from one side to the other with the waves. We also sat on the beach, letting the waves bounce us around. I collected about 2 lb of sand in my suit and kayaking gloves!

Orientation to the Garden Isle - Kauai

A short plane trip from Honolulu to Lihue, and we landed on Kauai. Just like that. Picked up our car, and headed off to Hanalei and our garden cottage, home for the next week.

On our flight we noted a young women seated just behind us. I noticed that she was missing her left arm, and Ted remembered reading about her. She was attacked by a shark when she was 13, survived, starting surfing again within a month, and is now a pro surfer. A very inspiring tale of determination and courage.
Here's her website: http://www.bethanyhamilton.com/ if you are interested in more.

We arrived in Hanalei, checked into our cottage and went to see about kayaking the Na Pali Coast. A storm hit the Pacific Northwest so the swells are reaching here - trip may or may not go Friday or Saturday: stay tuned.

A drive out to Ke'e Beach and the start of the Na Pali hiking trail was neat, but the beach was closed to swimming and snorkelling. The waves are just too high, and the current pretty strong.

Even though our lives are dictated by weather, and we deal with it all the time, it is a rude reminder of how all your holiday plans can be turned upside down by Mother Nature.

Ted & I walked down to our beach, Hanalei Beach so I could have a quick dip. We also watched some surfers, probably locals, just hanging in the bay catching waves. It seems to be a very democratic sport - I have seen all ages, shapes and sizes heading out with boards. We watched a little keikei (kid) of about 4 or 5 catch some waves with his dad. Too cool.

A snorkeller's paradise!

We headed off 1st thing to Hanauma Bay, a marine conservation area and snorkeller's paradise. Terry met us there so we got a personalized tour, after our mandatory 15 minute orientation video. Quite well done, and a nice idea.

The water was a bit wavy and stirred up, but I still saw a sea turtle within minutes of getting in the water. Too cool. I was sure Ted and Terry had seen it but they hadn't when we chatted later.

We headed out the cable channel towards a spot called Witches Brew, but it got rough, deep and poor viz. Ted was way, way, WAY outside his comfort zone so we went back into the reef area. Viz had cleared up, and there were tons of fish.

We were taking a rest in a sandy area when we noticed a Monk seal sunning itself on the rocks, undisturbed. Monk seals are an endangered species so it was very special to see one. There is a dedicated team of Monk seal watchers reporting observations and doing everything possible to keep the population going.

On our way back, we met another Green Sea turtle, and hovered in the water inches from him while he grazed on fronds of algae growing on the coral. We felt honoured and blessed that he accepted us as part of his natural world as we all floated to and fro in the gentle currents swirling round the reef. We eventually had to go our separate ways, but it was very special to share that moment with such a beautiful prehistoric creature.

Terry kindly had us over to his place for his world famous (at least to the Over Flanders Fields team) Caesar salad and pesto sesame chicken. It was a wonderful meal in a great spot with good company. After dinner, he and Ted were chomping at the bit to check out Terry's new NASA super-computer including rudder bar, throttle and joy stick. Ted now has a very severe case of computer envy.

Next day was off to Kauai and our cottage in Hanalei. Stay tuned for more.

The quintessential Hawaiian experience. Yes, that's me -the Blue Hawaiian. Standing up. On a surfboard. Not bad for someone who gets near the ocean almost never.

Surfing was the most fun I have had in a long time, and for me, I found it as easy as skiing and way easier than snowboarding. Honest. It was lay down, hop up and stand up.

I went with Hawaii Firefighters. They run a great lesson in small groups on a quiet beach on an army base. What you don't see are the hunky instructors helping to paddle us out, and the push at the exact moment to catch a wave. That is the real secret to success for us wannabes.

It sure is an authentic Hawaiian experience, and allowed me to find my inner zen water baby. It makes one want to travel the world, chasing the perfect wave.

I am now on Kauai, and finding winter weather has arrived so our desired kayak trip may not happen...however, it does mean another go at surfing for me. Funny how weather can dictate one's activities, just like in our mountain home!

Greetings from windward Oahu

We arrived safe & sound, and found our cabana easily in the dark.

The time change is 4 hours so we were up before first light ready to snorkel with all the happy little fishes. A quick latte and breakfast bagel at an old style plantation market had us fueled for the morning. The scenery is incredible, but in some ways, feels like home. Except for the warmth. and the palm trees and the ocean. Cliffs go straight up in the air. The road, houses and businesses are all carved out of a small piece of "flat land" between the road and the ocean.

We stopped in to visit an online friend of Ted's who manages the Hawaiian Underwater Research Lab, which includes the 2 Pisces deep water scientific research subs (at least 6000 feet deep) at Makai Pier.



The pier served as Magnum's spot for a swim, and TJ's helicopter in Magnum PI. I Terry also has frequently worked on films: he was the shark wrangler in "For Your Eyes Only" and the stunt man in "The Abyss." These subs are affiliated with NOAA and the University of Hawaii. Ted couldn't help but admire the good welds on the grabby arms, similar to the Canadarm.

Not only did we get to check out the subs, but the local wildlife popped in for a visit.



There were quite a few sea turtles out & about. I joined Terry for his daily 2 mile swim which was great. Apparently there were turtles out there, but there were waves, and viz was limited. I did manage to get stung by a Portuguese Man O'War but nothing like the lethal nightmares of my childhood, gleaned from novels about Florida.

In Waikiki, we stopped by the War Memorial Natatorium, a 100 m sized swimming pool built just after WWI for returning soldiers, and home to Duke Kahanamoku, Olympic Gold Medalist and godfather of modern surfing, Johnny Weissmuller and Esther Williams. Talk about some great names in swimming! Only the magnificent art deco facade has been restored, but it is easy to imagine the facility in its glory days.

We watched a guy with a boogie board AND his dog swimming laps along the small beach beside the Natatorium. The golden retriever LUV'D swimming, but was not completely at ease on the boogie board. He is still a puppy so maybe he will learn to boogie yet.

Off to Hawaii!

It always a contradiction for me to live in a special place and yet want to explore others. It has been said about Banff that if you wait long enough, the world will come to you. This is true for Lake Louise, in the heart of Banff National Park. I wonder if I am inspired to explore in part because all those who make their way here.

Lake Louise is a cherished destination for many. I am fortunate to live here, and enjoy it in its many moods. This summer, my mountain home has tested me. It has been cold, wet & rainy. As I type, the clouds burning off, and snow on the peaks is slowly revealing itself. The days are getting shorter, and popular spots are beginning to empty out. It feels like it is now my turn for a holiday.

Exploration is beckoning: I am craving warmth, water and sun. Tomorrow, I board a jet plane for the warm tropical destination of Hawaii! Awaiting us is warm weather, snorkelling, surfing, and the kayak trip of a lifetime. I am sure there will be blues and greens in sharp contrast to the grey, blue, white & green palate of my world.

I hope to share photos and stories of our adventures. I would add a photo, but alas, the clouds are not really co-operating. I will try tomorrow.